January 2001
January General Meeting
Dave Zemrau and Julia Keenliside-An inside look at special camps
Come hear about last summer's GMC (General Mountaineering Camp) in Fairy Meadows and the Marmot Women's camp in Hermit Meadows. Dave will reveal what the GMC is like from the perspective of an Amateur Leader. Julia will tell us how nine participants, two guides, camp manager, and a representative from Marmot (all women) spent four days in the mountains working on leadership skills and having fun. Hear about the mistakes and what's in store for next year.
January 16th, 7:30 PM
The Varscona Hotel
8208 - 106 Street
(The après-meeting occurs downstairs in O'Byrne's Pub)
Assiniboine Climbing/Hiking Camp, August 2001
The Edmonton Section will hold two one-week camps at O'Brien Meadows in Assiniboine Provincial Park August 12-19 and August 19-26. Since1986, the section has held three very successful camps at that location. Based on a break-even budget, the cost is $400 each week, which covers the cost of gourmet meals, transportation of camp supplies and personal luggage to and from the camp by helicopter, a heated drying tent, park user fees and other miscellaneous costs. Activities at the camp will be climbing and hiking: the emphasis in the first week being climbing and the second week, hiking. There will be a limit of 25 participants each week.
For further information or to reserve a spot, contact the person listed below for the appropriate week. To confirm your reservation, make your cheque for $400 payable to the Edmonton Section, ACC, post-dated to June 15, 2001, and mail it to the contact for week 1 or 2.
| Week 1: | John Booth 780-462-8014 jbooth@telusplanet.net 1111 Lakewood Rd. N., Edmonton T6K 3A9 |
| Week 2: | George Stefanick 780-434-2532 stefanck@ecn.ab.ca 6041 - 107 A Street, Edmonton T6H 2Y4 |
We've had a couple of new trips added to the roster.
| Feb 3-4 | Louise Falls and/or Linda Ice Nine 4 to 5 multipitch experience req. |
Int/Adv | Hostel | Luke Flowers 466-7422 (h) 432-1707 (w) lukas@isicmail.com |
| Mar 3-4 | Lake Minnewanka 3 to 4+ |
Int/Adv | Hostel | Luke Flowers 466-7422 (h) 432-1707 (w) lukas@isicmail.com |
Report from the Environment Committee-November 2000
A brief summary of our activities does not reflect the actual time spent dealing with them!
The first three months of the year were spent in digesting, preparing, attending and presenting at the Cheviot Mine Hearings. These had been reconvened for the federal-provincial Panel to hear further arguments about the cumulative effects of the mine, along with forestry and oil and gas activities. At the initial pre-hearing, we requested that the cumulative effects of recreational activities should also be examined, as the creation of the Whitehorse Wildland Park and the establishment of the Forest Land Use Zone had changed the situation since the previous hearings. Both these actions were part of our recommendations in our original presentation.
As a result of these latest hearings, the Panel gave its approval to the mine but pointed out that "without mitigation, there would be a significant regional adverse effect on grizzly bears, with or without the Project" (italics mine). They also recommended two specific steps: that there should be a new regionally based Off Highway Vehicle (OHV) area, and that the Cardinal Headwaters should be given more protection and incorporated into the Whitehorse Wildland Park-both being our recommendations. We will therefore follow up on those.
Just recently, I heard from the Energy and Utilities Board (EUB) that, "as the ACC's intervention was well considered, effective and very economical, the ACC's costs should be awarded in full." (They could say we were economical, compared with the lawyers and other intervenors' costs, none of which were granted!) So, I like to think that the ACC's activities here do carry a certain credibility.
As usual, this is not the end of the story, but the beginning of a new chapter. I have recently attended a couple of public fora on a proposed North-East Slopes Strategy for Sustainable Resource and Environment Management, which is also part of the results of the Cheviot Hearings. We seem to be re-inventing the wheel, but I suppose I'll have to keep at them!
I would also like to say that, at these and other meetings, representing the ACC as a low-impact outdoor recreation group gives us a chance to put in a word for other self-propelled back-country recreationists, who are never at the table. The OHV interests, on the other hand, always have several representatives present.
Other activities this year were the campaign opposing the Kananaskis development, which had a "good news" result for a change (I wrote to Gary Mar, then Minister of Environment, on behalf of the Section, thanking him for his efforts) and publicity about the Natural Heritage Act. This unfortunately died, and will apparently be resurrected as a new Parks and Protected Areas after the next election, so we haven't heard the last of that one, either. I keep thinking I can retire again, but it never seems to happen.
Alison Dinwoodie, Chair
Edmonton Section Environment Committee
Track 'n Trail still has a few dates for their waxing clinics, just in time to use your new Christmas presents. Dates are:
Close to 150 slides and about 20 prints were submitted for the annual photo contest. During the wine and cheese party on Saturday, 25 November, all slides and photos were shown, and presentations were made to first-place winners in each of the 13 categories. Congratulations to all the first-, second- and third-place winners (as judged by Frank Geddes and Roger Marchand), and many thanks to all who submitted photos. Some of the photos were truly wonderful.
The winners for each category are below. Check out our web site to view the winning slides.
Rock Climbing and Mountaineering. Rex Gibson memorial trophy.
3rd George Morris: The delicate touch.
2nd Dave Zemrau: March.
1st Dave Zemrau: On line.
Snow and Ice Climbing. Frank Hollingsworth memorial trophy.
3rd Julia Keenliside: Colossal ridge: adamants.
2nd Ray Cislo: Party not resting on Balfour Glacier.
1st Tom Jansing: Icing on the cakewalk.
Skiing: Edmonton Section ski trophy.
3rd Gary Arnold: Kiwetinok Pass.
2nd Gary Arnold: No title.
1st Tom Jansing: Steep 'n Deep.
Alpine Association: Summer. Gladys Hartley Memorial trophy.
3rd Julia Keenliside: Hermit meadows after the storm.
2nd Brenda McIntyre: Still Life 1.
1st Charles Labatiuk: Borax, Laguna captjaa, Bolivia.
Alpine Association: Winter. George Jones/Jutta Seehafer trophy.
3rd George Morris: Pyramid in early winter garb.
2nd Pat Hodgkinson: No title.
1st Gary Arnold: Mt. Balfour.
Mountain Fauna. Ralph Forster trophy.
3rd George Morris: Young Swiss marmots grooming.
2nd Tom Jansing: Objects in viewfinder are closer than they appear.
1st Charles Labatiuk: Vizchaca (chinchilla) in early morning light, northern Chile.
Mountain Flora. Pat Payne memorial shield.
3rd Ray Cislo: Ferns in Australia.
2nd Charles Labatiuk: Llareta, Andean lichen (>400 yrs old), northern Chile.
1st George Morris: Sempervivum montanum, the mis-named Mountain Hemlock.
Photo montage. Helen Burns cup.
3rd Phil Kemp: In search of the finger.
2nd Phil Kemp: Outpost Peak.
1st Charles Labatiuk: Ridges.
Mountain Humour. Wooden model.
3rd Tom Jansing: Before & After
2nd Ray Cislo: Why is it that their food always looks better than ours.
1st Ray Cislo: It only hurts when I sit down.
Alpine Experimental. Harry Wohlfarth painting.
3rd Ray Cislo: Long day done.
2nd George Morris: Mary Lake, through the cornice.
1st Renee Polziehn: Reflections; picture of Balfour kitchen windows as departing.
Black and White Print. Ansel Adams book
1st Henry Krieger: Mount Fay and Bowlen from Larch Meadows.
Colour Print: Beer Stein
3rd Karen Hage: View from Mt. Temple.
2nd Andrea Lines: Onset of spring.
1st Karen Hage: Old man of the mountain.
Mountain People. Smith, Carlson, Smith award.
3rd George Morris: Praising the mountain gods on the summit of Shaeffer Peak, B.C.
2nd Tom Jansing: A good day in the mountains is better than pretty much anything.
1st Ray Cislo: David Thompson Country.
Special Awards and Recognition
At the annual wine and cheese party (November 25), our club Chair, Renee Polziehn, recognized several individuals who have been key to the success of the Edmonton Section. They are as follows.
Trip Leader Recognition - for leading a number of trips or courses over the past few years
The Mountaineering Skills Review nights continue to run at the Wall on the first Wednesday of each month (except January). They generally begin at around 8:45 or 9:00 and finish up at 10:00. The schedule, which is subject to change without notice, is as follows:
Start praying for snow, but meantime, see you at the Wall!
2001 Winter Courses:
Avalanche Safety, Climbing, Ski Touring & First Aid
All courses are taught by Cyril Shokoples, an internationally certified mountain guide and outdoor educator. All technical gear is provided, but participants are responsible for their own food, boots, clothing and accommodation. Course details will be provided when participants sign up.
Course locations
Ice climbing courses: David Thompson country, west of Nordegg
Avalanche Awareness - day 1: Jasper or Canmore
Avalanche Awareness - day 2: Lake Louise or Columbia Icefields, depending upon conditions
Ski Touring & Glacier Travel - day 1: Jasper
Ski Touring & Glacier Travel - day 2: Icefields
Emergency Mountaineering First Aid: Canmore
Mountain Navigation: Canmore.
Participants are required to complete a medical form and waiver before each course. To confirm a spot on a course, you must pay the course fee, in full, in advance.
Further information, applications and related forms can be obtained by calling Rescue Dynamics at 461-5040. Reservations for weekend courses must be paid in full at the time of booking. Complete information is on the Rescue Dynamics website. The e-mail address is resqdyn@compusmart.ab.ca.
ACC Ice Climbing Leadership Course
Postponed - watch for new date. Registration is only open to ACC trip leaders or potential leaders. Contact Course Coordinator Jason Doyle to see if you qualify.
ACC Ski Touring Leadership Course
February 17 - 19, 2001
Takes place during a three-day glacier ski tour on the Wapta. Registration is only open to ACC trip leaders. Contact Course Coordinator Jason Doyle to see if you qualify.
Introductory Waterfall Ice Climbing
January 6, 7, 2001 or February 3, 4, 2001 or March 1, 2, 2001
Price: $200 includes GST
Participants: minimum 3, maximum 8
A two-day course to introduce the fundamentals of waterfall ice climbing and related ropework. Moving on ice from French technique to "full-on" front pointing will be introduced. Basics of ice anchors and belays are part of the program. Technical gear. including crampons, ice tools, harness and helmet, are provided. A basic rock-climbing course or indoor wall-climbing background (including tying-in and belaying) is a prerequisite.
Intermediate Waterfall Ice Climbing
January 9, 10, 2001 or February 6, 7, 2001 or March 3, 4, 2001
Price: $225 includes GST
Participants: minimum 3, maximum 4
For those people who have already taken basic waterfall ice (prerequisite) and have gone on a few climbs, this is the next step. Learn more about ice anchors, Abalakovs and screamers, including the techniques used to begin leading and more. Improve your ice skills and learn more about multipitch climbing. Pick up valuable knowledge on safety and other important considerations.
Introductory Avalanche Awareness - Safety & Rescue - Level 1
Canmore: February 10, 11, 2001
Jasper: Jan 27, 28, 2001 (full) or February 26, 27, 2001 or March 10, 11, 2001
Price: $107 includes GST
Participants: minimum 5, maximum 9
This two-day course will introduce participants to the avalanche phenomenon. The winter snowpack, avalanche terrain, safety measures and rescue procedures will be covered in a mix of classroom and field sessions. An absolute must if you are heading out mountain ski touring. Course price includes course text plus use of avalanche beacon, probe, shovel, snow saw and snow study kit. Certificate upon completion. (Curriculum follows CAA-approved RAC guidelines.)
Advanced Avalanche Awareness - Safety & Rescue
February 12 - 16, 2001
Price: $400 includes GST
Participants: minimum 3, maximum 8
This five-day course picks up where introductory awareness courses leave off. A large proportion of this course is spent in the field. The winter snowpack, avalanche terrain, safety measures and rescue procedures are covered in much more detail. Essential if you are leading mountain ski touring trips. This is the ideal prep course if you plan to go on to take the CAA Professional courses. Course price includes course text, use of beacon, probe, shovel, snow saw and snow study kit. Certificate upon completion. (Curriculum follows CAA-approved RAC guidelines.)
Introductory Ski Touring & Winter Glacier Travel
Jasper: January 29, 30, 2001 or February 24, 25, 2001 or March 12, 13, 2001
Price: $185 includes GST
Participants: minimum 3, maximum 10
This is a two-day course to introduce persons already familiar with cross country skiing or ski touring to the techniques necessary for safe travel on glaciated terrain. The course deals with glacier hazards, crevasse rescue, roped glacier travel, track setting and route-finding on glaciers in winter. Participants must be in good physical condition and be able to ski uphill and downhill in control with a full day pack in variable off-trail snow conditions.
NEW - Introduction to Backcountry Touring and Ski Techniques
Jasper: January 25, 26, 2001 or February 22, 23, 2001 or March 8, 9, 2001
Price $160 includes GST
Participants: minimum 3, maximum 8
This is a new course focusing on backcountry skiing skills in non-glaciated alpine terrain on either telemark or randonee (alpine) equipment. Snowboarders can also join in. It is intended to provide additional tools to the novice-to-intermediate skier for dealing with deep snow and tough backcountry conditions. The first day is on a ski hill (lift ticket included) and the second day is in the backcountry.
Mountain Winter Camping and Snow Shelters
February 1, 2, 2001
Price $160 includes GST
Participants: minimum 3, maximum 9
Learn the secrets of the cool masters in winter camping. Qwinzhees, igloos, snow caves and tents will all be erected for this awesome experience. No previous experience necessary.
ALL NEW for 2001 - "Complete" Winter Courses
The Complete Introduction to Waterfall Ice Climbing
January 6 - 10, 2001 or February 3 - 7, 2001 or March 1 - 5, 2001
Price $535 includes GST
Participants: minimum 2, maximum 4
Combine Introductory Waterfall Ice, Intermediate Waterfall Ice and an extra day of guided climbing for a five-day complete waterfall ice experience.
The Complete Introduction to Avalanche Safety
February 10 - 16, 2001
Price $475 including GST
Participants: minimum 3, maximum 8
Combine Introductory Avalanche Safety and Advanced Avalanche Safety, Search and Rescue for a seven-day complete avalanche safety experience.
The Complete Introduction to Winter Ski Touring
Jasper: January 25 - 30, 2001 or February 22 - 27, 2001 or March 8 - 13, 2001
Canmore: April 5 - 10, 2001
Price $428 includes GST
Participants: minimum 3, maximum 8
Combine Introduction to Backcountry Touring and Ski Techniques, Introductory Avalanche Safety & Rescue and Introductory Ski Touring & Winter Glacier Travel for a six-day complete winter ski touring and safety experience.
Mountain and Wilderness Navigation
Date: Canmore: April 21, 22, 2001
Price: $135 includes GST
Participants: minimum 4, maximum 12
Map reading, compass use, bearings, back bearings, triangulation, dead reckoning, aiming off, handrails, altimeter use, backstops, whiteout navigation, wands, satellite GPS and a whole bunch more jam-packed into two fun-filled days. A great mix of classroom and outdoor exercises.
Emergency Mountaineering First Aid "EMFA"
Canmore: April 28, 29, 2001
Price: $160 includes GST
This specialized course addresses common traumatic and environmental injuries encountered by climbers and skiers. Included in the price are critical components of a proper mountain first aid kit. This is one of the best attended courses we offer. Highly recommended by past participants.
Outdoor and Wilderness Life Support "OWLS"
November 10, 11, 17, 18, 2001
Price $347.40 includes GST, textbook and materials
A two-weekend course designed to bridge the gap between basic and advanced courses. Great for section trip leaders, hiking and backpacking guides. This course is being organized in conjunction with the ACC Calgary Section. See the Rescue Dynamics website for more information.
Wilderness First Aid Scenario Weekend
November 24, 25, 2001
Price $107.00 includes GST
A weekend of first aid nightmares with a wilderness theme. This course is being organized in conjunction with the ACC Calgary Section. See the Rescue Dynamics website for more information
All Edith: A Day with Dan Doll
Phil Kemp
"Perhaps the weather'll be better tomorrow." After a Friday night in the (to me, unexpected) luxury of the Castle Mountain Hostel, we awake to (yet another) gloomy 2000 morning, promising wet rocks and more dampness to follow. Perhaps other potential trippers heard the forecast and stayed home? Perhaps they had good judgement?
With raingear handy, we nip down the Radium road and hike up to Ball Pass. This is B.C.; it's supposed to be wet; we needn't feel badly about it. Actually, we get clouds but not much else along a pleasant steady-graded trail. After three hours, we reach the pass and enjoy good views up to Mt. Ball and down towards Shadow Lake.
There're some splendid waterfalls to admire along the way and even a small boulder to exercise on beside the trail. This isn't the alpine rock climb planned but is a pleasant use of a doubtful day. For dessert we do the 'tourist' thing and stop to visit the Paint Pots by the road. I never knew the red/yellow clay was once mined, sent to Calgary and used to make paints.
0515 hr; this is tomorrow, the weather is better. We leave the Fireside picnic area at 0700 and head along the Edith pass trail seeking the '2-log bridge' described in the 'Selected Alpine Climbs' guidebook. Times change; one log's rotting so it's more like a 1.5-log bridge. Distance descriptions are more stable and correct; 500 yards later (at 0820 hr), we reach an opener slope on the left and leave the trail to head upwards on game(?) trails. Above the last trees, the more worn trail slopes left. Following this becomes progressively difficult; we backtrack and slope up right and then left above a cliff band. This brings us, at 1000 hr, to the base of a ridge that looks like it could be, and has been, climbed.
Some distance right is a large gully; this, says Dan, is the route. The left side looks easier climbing; the right side has a pin near the base. Dan elects protection over ease and starts right; it's nice with first moves above the nominal 5.4. Some 150' up, pins on the right guard a good stance; 100' later, pins on the left do the same. Three more pitches of some 120' each follow, this time without nailed stances, though mostly with reasonable placements for cams and chock runners en route.
At this point the guide says to 'take the rock to the right where the gully veers left'. It doesn't. We veer slightly left and short-rope up easy ground to the ridge to take a snack break where we find some shiny new bolts. Perhaps there's a new sports climb here?
Another hour on the ridge, with only one step giving a pitch of challenge, yields the South summit at 1330 hr. Backtracking for 'two rope-lengths' - so nice to get precise distances - we drop off the ridge and follow cairns down and round to the right to the top of the celebrated 'hole'. This dark sloping chimney has a bed of snow and some ice that makes the trip more entertaining. The 'normal route' then follows scree down and right to the col between S and Centre summits.
A simple scree hike down would quickly gain the Cory Pass trail, the cars and an early night home. But the Centre summit is only, maybe, a simple half-hour away and the weather's holding and it'd be a pity to have to come all this way just for that, so....
At 1500 hr, we enjoy the view. This includes the ridge leading to the North top. The part we can see doesn't look too evil, but how does it start? Giving up another chance for an early night, we experiment. The way needs care but proves not difficult. Inside an hour, we reach the col and contour to the path to the final peak. This leads to one of two easy-angled chimneys (each rather like the descent from S peak only minus the roof and minus the snow and ice) exiting near the top.
What a magnificent view of Louis! Another pair of peak-baggers approach. We take their picture. Well, I hope we do - the digital camera has an LCD display completely invisible in the bright sun; at least the lens was pointed in about the right direction.
Descending the 'other' chimney and some scree brings us soon down to Corey Pass and the homeward trail. Within two hours, at 1900 hr, we're back at the cars and ready for the shorter (Calgary) and longer (Edmonton) drive home.
Thanks, Dan, for a great July day. Edith has been on my 'to-do' list for years; I'm not disappointed. In fact, I may well choose to repeat it.