May 2001
Next Meeting
Dr. Warren Thirsk - Hypothermia and Frostbite
As we move out of winter and into the summer months, the likelihood of hypothermia increases for mountain adventurers. Warren will talk about the physiological changes, prevention, and treatment of hypothermia and frostbite.
May 15th, 7:30 PM
The Rutherford Room
Varscona Hotel
8208 - 106 Street
(The après-meeting occurs downstairs in O’Byrne’s Pub)
Coming Soon
Inside
Upcoming Trips
| May 12 & 13 | 2nd annual crevasse rescue | All levels | Edwina Podemski 436-5474 |
| May 19 - 21 | North Twin | Advanced | David Zemrau 449-4208 |
| Jun 30 - Jul 5 | Mt. Kidd | Reinhard Berg 439-6822 |
|
| Jul 2 - 5 | 2nd annual Ghost River | Family climbing | Reinhard Berg 439-6822 |
| May 19 - 21 | Rock Leadership | $60.00/person | Roger Marchand 477-2943 |
| Jun 30 - Jul 2 | Alpine Rock Leadership | $60.00/person | Roger Marchand 477-2943 |
Report from your Executive
Two main issues under discussion at the April meeting were the revision of the Access/-Environment Policy and the maintenance of club-owned ropes. It is the Edmonton Section's intention to clearly define the Access/Environment Policy toward our responsible use of areas involved in mountain-eering and to work in con-junction with the other ACC sections and the National Club. We approved Alison Dinwoodie's changes "to ensure that maintaining ecological integrity takes priority over excessive rec-reational use" and that, when reasonable data are lacking, a precautionary approach should be taken. To maintain club-owned ropes and to stem their high rate damage, a simple user fee for a period of approximately one year will be initiated. We hope to encourage those new to mountaineering to develop habits of responsible care. The policy will be revisited in one year.
Thanks, Dave
Our Breeze co-editor-David Forest-is moving on… to Calgary, no less. Dave's wife has taken a job with a consulting company, and Dave says he's going to play in the mountains (with U of C). We wish both of them well! Thanks for all your work on the Breeze, Dave. Sorry to hear you won't be anywhere near a team that makes it to the NHL playoffs, though.
Announcements
Skaha RockFest 2001: May 19-21
If you are thinking of going to Skaha in May, why not think about going there on the long weekend when the first annual Skaha Climbers Festival will be taking place. There'll be climbing competitions, photo clinics, prizes, slide shows and a big party.
For More info: www.skaha.org/
Or contact Ann Armstrong (250) 493-8337
Registration Costs:
$20/Person for festival registration,
12 and under free.
$10/Person for climbing competition.
AWA Open House
Join host Dustin Lynx, author of the newly released guidebook, Hiking Canada's Great Divide Trail, as he takes us on a 1200-km trek from Waterton through Banff and Jasper National Parks to Kakwa Lake north of Mt. Robson, crossing the Divide over 30 times. Come and share his wealth of knowledge and experience in long-distance hiking and the challenges of this unique backcountry trail.
Strathcona Community League
10139 - 87 Ave
Edmonton
May 10
7:00 - 9:00 PM
Cost: $4.00 per person, children free
988-5487 for more information
Annual Outdoor Expo and Sidewalk Sale
Sponsored by Track 'n Trail: 10148-82 Avenue.
Sat. May 12th
This event will showcase outdoor clubs, camps associations and guides. The goal is to promote the overall enjoyment of the outdoors. Track 'n Trail will close the sidewalk and the parking lane in front of the store so that the public can stroll through the booths at their leisure.
The ACC Edmonton Section is planning to have an information booth at this event. If you are able to assist by volunteering some time to sit at the booth, please contact one of the members of the Executive to let us know. Thanks!
Bighorn Country Wildlands Coalition
The Bighorn Country Wildlands Coalition is a coalition of concerned local and provincial, citizens, trail riding outfitters, equestrians, backpackers and hikers, hunters, anglers, eco-tourism businesses, conservation and recreation groups. The Coalition has set-up the Bighorn Country Action Centers as part of its campaign to promote the establishment and legal pro-tection of Bighorn Country, which covers over 7,000 sq. km of spectacular mountain and foothills landscape located in central Alberta's eastern slopes of the Canadian Rocky Mountains. This region borders Banff and Jasper National Parks to the east and is essential to the ecological health of these two national parks.
While the mountain region of Bighorn Country is still pristine, limited development has taken place in some parts of the area's foothills region. The wildlands of Bighorn Country are under imminent threat by industrial activities and excessive motorized recreational use.
You can visit the coalition's website to find out how to help save these wildlands and to learn about:
Climbing News
Summer Hours at the Wall
As of 2nd May, the Wednesday night hours at the Wall will be 6 to 9 PM until September. (It's still 7 to 10 PM until 2nd May.). All Edmonton section members are free to use the Wall during those times.
Skills Review at the Wall
There are only two more Mountaineering Skills Review nights at the Wall-each being on the first Wednesday of the month, beginning at around 8:45 or 9:00 and finishing at 10:00. They are:
Bouldering Clinics
A Bouldering Clinic will be held Sunday May 6 and Sunday May 13. Each session will go from 4:00 to 7:00 PM and will be held at the Uof A Climbing Wall. The first session will deal with some basic bouldering techniques, and the second will get into some more advanced moves. For those who may already have the basic moves down, but wanting to improve and build on their skills, this will be a great opportunity to get some coaching during both sessions. The cost for both sessions will be $40.00.
Guarantee your spot by paying in full (write a cheque payable to Edmonton Section, ACC).
There will be a maximum of 12 participants, with two instructors. Simon Robbins, who instructed at last years' clinic will be one of them. If you are interested in attending the clinic, you need to e-mail or telephone Enid Higham (eahigham@telusplanet.net, or 439-1776). You need to state your name, contact number and ACC membership number. Priority will be given to Edmonton Section members. Non-members will only be accepted if the quota is not met by members by April 29. There will be an additional $10.00 fee for non-members. Last year this clinic filled up quickly, so act soon and don't be disappointed!
Barry Blanchard Talk
Friday May 4, 2001
7:00 - 9:00
University of Alberta
Van Vliet Room E 120
$6.00
Barry Blanchard has climbed Everest, K2, Denali, the Alps, and pioneering routes in the Rockies; he's also taken part in the filming of Cliffhanger and K2. Don't miss this inside view into the life of this jet-setting, movie star, mountain man!
Tickets are going fast. You might still find some on sale at: Track 'n Trail, Campus Outdoor Centre, Vertically Inclined Rock Gym, Mountain Equipment Co-op, Steeps Tea House, and Valhalla Pure.
Ropes Update
We have sold two sections of rope, resulting in cash to the gear fund of $130.00. We have also collected an additional $80.00 to date from participants, for a total of $210.00. Accordingly, we will purchase a 60-m, 9-mm dry rope.
In addition, John Stegmeier has donated a 3-year-old lead rope; 50 m, 9 mm for glacier travel only. He indicates there have been no leader falls and no damage to the rope.
ListBot Awaits You
For those who have not already cinched a good line with our automatic message board, check out our ListBot service. Just go to our website at alpineclub-edm.org and click on the ListBot button. Once registered, you'll receive timely notice, via e-mail, of upcoming events and changes to our summer and winter schedules. And don't worry, your e-mail address won't be shopped around.
Barbecue and Pot Luck
Our annual barbecue is coming up! In June, we forego the regular monthly meeting and, instead, hold a barbecue at:
Strathcona Community League
10139 - 87 Ave
6:00 PM
The regular cost is $8.00, which includes food and beer, but, if you bring a ready-made backcountry meal, you pay only half price. Either way, it's a great deal.
Thanks to Ken Larlee for volunteering to take care of this year's food and drink arrangements.
What to Expect as a Trip Participant and a Trip Leader
by Renee Polziehn
Are you new to the Alpine Club and would like to go on a section trip but are not sure what is expected of you? Are you interested in leading a club trip? Whether you are a novice or seasoned climber, the following is a guideline for you to get the most out of the upcoming season.
Preparation
To begin, you should have an inventory of your skills, trips you have done, courses you have taken, people you have climbed with, and equipment in your possession. As a trip participant, please feel free to ask the trip leader if he/she has been in the area before, have they taken someone of your level on a similar trip, can they provide a route description, do they know the current conditions, and do they have an itinerary. This will give you some idea of how well prepared and how familiar the trip leader is with leading the trip. As a trip participant, you can expect to be asked what type of trips you have done and what set of skills you possess. If you have climbed with other people in the club or neighborhood, be prepared to share their names and contact information. The trip leader should be able to provide information about 1) car pooling, 2) accommodations and/or tenting groups, 3) cooking arrangements and meals that will be required, 4) equipment that you will require as an individual, and 5) equipment that will be provided by the club or trip leader. While some details will not be secured until close to the departure date, please ask the trip leader about gear requirements, especially if you are renting.
If you are using club gear, make arrangements with the gear manager - Edwina Podemski - well in advance to pick-up and return the equipment.
People
As a trip leader, you have many roles. You are responsible for putting together a prepared team of individuals to begin an adventure. Not only do you need to ensure that adequate equipment is available and accommodations have been arranged prior to starting up the trailhead, but also that your group of participants have the skills needed to meet your goals. You will need to consider strengths and weaknesses of the team. Are any of your participants adept at navigation or first aid? How many participants could also lead the trip and act as a back-up if something should go wrong? Do any of the participants have additional interests or activities that can add or detract from the trip? If you are taking out a large group on a glacier trip, you will likely want to get everyone together to review skills and to decide on rope teams. This activity will help unite the group and can help the trip leader assign participants to rope teams.
As a novice, you can expect to be teamed up with more experienced club members. One key element of club trips is that their success is dependent on the efforts of the entire party. Please volunteer or ask the trip leader what he/she needs done and don't be surprised when a trip leader asks you to be responsible for a particular task.
As a participant, don't be afraid to ask who else is going and what level of experience they have! If you plan to carry your tripod along to snap a lot of photos, you may want to talk to the trip leader that you can be positioned at the end of the rope or with a team that plans to do similar activities. If you despise porridge, are allergic to peanut butter, or don't eat meat, you will also want to inform your trip leader if group meals are part of trip plans. ALWAYS ASK FOR DIRECTIONS WHEN IN DOUBT... whether you are setting up an anchor, want to know how to light the lanterns, or whose lunch is in the food bag!
Safety
Safety is paramount to the success of a trip. It is your obligation to inform the trip leader of any physical conditions and medications that can limit your performance (mentally and physically). This will be confidential between the two of you. You should be able to provide an honest evaluation of your physical fitness. Are you fatigued after walking two hours or can you walk all day? The trip leader should be constantly monitoring the speed and well-being of the group; however, if you are feeling discomfort it is your responsibility to 1) deal with the situation and 2) inform the trip leader. It is better to stop and tape up a blister that is just starting than to cause the entire team to abandon their goals half way up a mountain. If you have concerns prior to the trip, please talk them over with the trip leader. It is not unusual for novices to question their abilities! And trip leaders should be able to offer advice on how to deal with perceived obstacles.
Trips
Before you begin any Alpine Club trip, you will be asked to sign a waiver. Activities listed in the trip schedule are rated according to difficulty. Please find a trip that is rated to your level and call the trip leader WELL in advance! Trips fill up quickly! If there is a place that you would like to go, and it is not on the schedule, please feel free to post it on our website. You will need to screen the participants and put together a team that can meet the trip requirements! This will make you part of the Edmonton Section Trip Leaders! Please feel free to coerce someone who has adequate skills as a co-trip leader!
If you don't see anything of interest on our trip schedule, please check out the trip schedule of other sections. While section trips are offered first to their own membership, Alpine Club members are welcome to participate on trips from all sections! So if you plan to be out on the coast for a couple of days, you may want to see ahead of time if you can join a trip with the locals!
Remember... Be safe and have a good time!
Wayne's World
Those of you who were able to make it to the monthly meeting in March were treated to a wonderful slide show of mountain environments afar, as Wayne Vibert showed us all about his first trip to Nepal. Well, for those who might have a hankering to go to Nepal, or just a curiosity for more information, be aware that Wayne has written five articles on various aspects of Nepal. His articles, replete with pictures, can be found on our website for a limited time, so enjoy.
Trips...Trips
A Newbie
by Susan Lenkewich
I attended my first-and definitely not my last-Alpine Club trip on March 2,2001. I had a great time. I learned lots, made some new friends and took lots of great pictures.
I am new to the sport of ice and rock climbing. It is a little scary but I love the challenge . The thing I like the most is being outside and I enjoy living in the present moment (gift) especially on the climb.
With saying all of that, I am glad that the Alpine Club exists. More importantly I feel Chris and Eddie need to be acknowledged for the work they do and the commitment to the Alpine club. I want Eddie and Chris to know that their hard work is not overlooked. I truly appreciate the time they take in making these trips happen. As well as all the teaching that happens along the way. If it was not for Chris and Eddie lots of people would be missing out.
Thanks so much. See you on the ice Podemski.
Canyon of Death: January 19-21, 2001
by Gary Arnold
On Thursday night we made it to the Alpine Centre at Lake Louise and promptly headed out to the bar (to find our friends, of course). They headed out to a different bar (to find us, of course). We found the Beer Out Here but all missed each other. A good start to the Return to the Canyon of Death-Part II (Part I being last year).
We got to Fay Hut a bit quicker this year in spite of climbing with our skis on our backs for an extra 500m. In Jan 2000, eight of us had tried to make the traverse from Fay Hut to Neil Colgan Hut but were turned back by threat of avalanche from the cornices and cliffs above the narrow gully that runs from Fay to the icefield below Colgan hut (nicknamed "the Canyon of Death" by an unknown author in the hut log).
In 2001: "A Hut Odyssey" we utilized the upside of the unseasonably low snowpack and managed to ski from Fay to Colgan in five hours plus or minus. Frank Geddes and I being the plus,as we were lolly-gagging and taking pictures on the icefield in the afternoon sun.
Neil Colgan Hut is perched on a ridge between Mt. Bowlen and Mt. Little with the outhouse towards the middle about 50 ft away to facilitate biffy barrel removal. To reach the hut you park your skis and climb across a wall above a windscoop about 60 ft deep with sloping sides and climb on up at a 40o angle across scree to the hut. We got in between 2 and 3 o'clock (eleven of us) and by 4 o'clock three of us-Dennis, Brian and I-had decided to climb Mt. Bowlen. We crossed the ridge in a stiff wind and climbed a 60o slope diagonally to where the snow ended. We stopped briefly to de-layer and a storm moved in on us. Snow and 70km/h winds and we bailed. A different route took us down the 60o slope on a sugar snow bumslide (snow depth 10"-12"). Another group tried to build a quinze but they ran into several layers of ice before they quit.
Towards Neil Colgan Hut
Happy hour was next (drinks were half price) and people stretched, dressed and partied while others took turns cooking and eating. After dinner, the high winds threatened to send us down the glacier like the Coors Lite Cabin and culminated in high altitude Biffy Races. Con-testants needed ski poles, goggles & boots and were judged on speed, style and cleanliness of delivery. First place went to Dennis Newsome of Calgary with a time of 3 minutes and only a few stains. Second, but first with a clean delivery, was our own Frank Geddes in 7 minutes (hey those winds were strong! The highlight of the evening was Reinhold making Jesse's Baileys bottle into a swish barrel and promptly delivering a sermon on the moral state of Canadian snowboarders.
Out safely on Sunday with occasional turns punctuated with face-plants as we submarined in the sugar. Back at the parking lot by 3:30pm and off to the Drake for pizza and beer.
Good thing it's bolted down!
Participants: Reinhold & Marion Mayerhofer, Ernst Bergmann, Dennis Newsome, Dan Hallett, Jesse Anaka, Paul Glombick, Brian Zurek, Roderick Hazewinkel, Gary Arnold and Frank Geddes.
Double-D and G-Lo on the Yoho: April 6-9, 2001
by Dan Doll
Call us wimps if you want, but we have no stories of 25-hour trail breaking on hands and knees into the Little Yoho valley to share. Instead, a rather uneventful trip across the Wapta and Des Poilus brought us to the comfort of the Stanley Mitchell Hut.
Maybe it was the Skyline Trail a few weeks earlier that had people questioning my ability to deliver on the promises of a ski (rather than hiking) trip, but it was just the dynamic duo of G-Lo (Gary Arnold) and myself left to tackle the Yoho traverse. At least we would be able to be rude, crude, and obnoxious without worrying about offending anyone.
Following our Thursday night meeting in Lake Louise and a few hours of sleep, we were off across Bow Lake first thing. A solo member of the Lyon Alpine Club met us at the bottom of the Bow Hut headwall, providing us with some tracks to follow in the fresh snow up to the hut. Following lunch in the comfort of the hut, we set off towards Mt. Collie. As the afternoon passed by, we began to realize how far away that evening's campsite was. A grind up through the fresh snow in the icefall below Collie had us both exhausted. Visions of an elaborate snow shelter were quickly replaced with digging a pit just large enough for our two bivvy bags, out of the constant wind. The mini-bar wasn't opened that night.
Before retiring for the evening, G-Lo left strict orders that he was not to be disturbed in the morning unless blue sky was on the horizon. 4 AM - blowing snow. 6 AM - blowing snow. Finally at 8 AM things began to quiet down and the stove was fired up to gently rouse G-Lo from his dreams (we won't get into those!).
Off we went under clear skies to the dreaded Des Poilus headwall (pronounced haad-wall, with a subtly Russian accent). To our delight, the headwall was a firm base of consolidated snow with just enough fresh stuff on top to make turns possible. Two sets of sinuous tracks and no divots gave us a reason to pause and admire our morning's accomplishments.
The Des Poilus glacier offered a pleasant downhill journey in beautiful surroundings. While we basked in the sun, clouds hung over Isolated Col throughout the day, a good sign for the south-facing slopes we would soon be skiing down. A shirt-sleeves lunch break in the rocks beside the toe of the Des Poilus glacier prepared us for the grind up to the col. As we approached Isolated Col, the outline of ski tracks could be seen during brief flashes of sun on the slopes above. I began to dream that there may be a reasonable uptrack in place up to the col. Threading our way up to the likely location of the uptrack, we were rewarded with the efforts of some young yo-yo skiers who had been shredding the north side of the col earlier in the day. The south side of the col offered the worst skiing of the day, with a breakable crust down to the trees and heavy, new snow on the trail down to the hut. The mini-bar was open for business shortly after our arrival at Stanley Mitchell.
The next day we bade farewell to our hut mates who were heading out to the highway (and forgot about doing a little cleanup before departing, grrr). We opted for turns on the President glacier. Attempts to follow the uptrack that two of the lads put in the day before almost killed us - are we getting old or are straight vertical, 30 degree climbs always a bad idea?
Low visibility on the lower glacier had G-Lo mumbling about "pulling the ripcord." Philosophical discussions about how you can't always ski when the sun is shining followed and put us back on an upward track. While the President and Vice-President remained shrouded in cloud, the glacier brightened up, allowing us to get in some fantastic skiing in over a foot of fresh snow. Finally, some good skiing in the Rockies!
As we skied across the meadow to the hut at the end of the day, the sun came out in full force. Following some quick chores, we were comfortably sitting in front of the hut with drinks in hand. According to G-Lo, our beverage of choice was properly known as "spooge", a.k.a. a scotch and snow slushie. The later discovery of an alternate use of the word "spooge" in a Maxim magazine in the hut library dulled our enthusiasm for G-Lo's cocktail nomenclature.
The ski out was complicated by a brutal run down the Laughing Falls trail and a coating of new, wet snow on the track out. However, we still managed to get back to Bow Lake and get a beer in hand by early afternoon.
Five minutes after our arrival at Num-Ti-Jah, a warden's truck pulled into the parking lot. As the warden started to walk towards us with paper in hand, G-Lo and I looked nervously at one another. Anything you want to tell me about, G-Lo? As it turned out, a concerned spouse had phoned Parks dispatch to see if we were alive and well following our weekend in "tiger country", as the avalanche danger had increased to "high."
We enjoyed some good skiing in a truly beautiful area. The traverse is worth a repeat, as is the G-Lo - Double D team that managed to keep each other laughing most of the way.
Iceimpactus suicidus
by Rick Cowburn
A humble submission, with a safety-oriented message:
The Murchison Reconnaissance team of Rick Cowburn & Chris Scott were the first climbers of the New Millennium to retrieve the Silver Horn of the rare alpine ice fauna, the Iceimpactus suicidus. Suicidus was said to seek death by smashing its flexible silver horn known as "Conduit" deep into the ice, and then lowering itself on rappel from this dubious, bendable anchor. The loud bellows and snorts it uttered during the descent were thought to be prayers in sundry languages to the Climbing Gods, petitioning them not to release the anchor until the climber is off rappel. As is writ in the Canons of ANAM, both the anchor and the prayers were often ineffective. No signs of Suicidus were seen on or at the top of the crux Grade 4 pitch. We therefore speculate that the Suicidus specimen and its gear were of equally advanced age; it's really hard to hammer in a 1970 vintage Ice Piton on lead. The Suicidus we observed TWICE backed up the Conduit with an Abalakov anchor. Mm. Podemski, Senior Vertebrate Ethnologist, directed that this unusual combination of survival-oriented learned behaviour with life-limiting genetic programming be published in this, the appropriate professional journal. Neither Rick nor Scotty were fortunate enough to see Suicidus itself, but its horn hangs as a trophy of honour in Rick's basement Climbing Shrine.
Anyone can fall with gravity
by Rick Cowburn
The most important part of any climbing trip is the Engorgement of Nutriments at its end, particularly if it's Baldy Burgers at the Nordegg Hotel. (Make Todd's a Triple). Out of gracious deference to the modesty of our members, we will not describe the Consumption in detail, but suffice it to say that the 15% hostelling international discount induced bulimia supreme.
Nightmare on Elm Street
Ice climbing earlier that Sunday: Cline River, I believe. Ah yes, that's why all my clothes were wet...we were suntanning on Nightmare on Elm Street, lowering poor wretches down into the shower, and marking their progress by how loud the splashing got as they neared the Lip. It seemed only fitting, for all these so-called beginners had absolutely no trouble on the Grade Four climbs, and they should indeed be soaked in everlasting ice water for their presumptuousness. There was Tanya & Joey & Brett & Shannon & Victor, and they all had no trouble, no trouble at all. It was all deeply disturbing. They must have been powered by last night's Scotch...and chocolate cheesecake...
Did I mention that the most important part of any climbing trip is the Engorgement of Nutriments at the end of a day, particularly if it's pasta & salad & wine at one of Chris & Eddie's Excellent Post-Adventure Feeds on Saturday night? The MEC Dragoons sat nearby, quaffing spiritous ethers in the finest climbing tradition, a wondrous sidecar to our boxcar of fifteen persons at a single table.
That Very Evening, Eddie Received the Coveted CONDUIT TO A BETTER WORLD. Joey & your Author dedicated our finest craftsmanship in Yellow Fleece to a commemorative plaque, featuring True Electrical Conduit retrieved from the flank of Mount Murchison (see previous article) only days before by the Heroic John Booth & yours truly. (John may need therapy for years to come to assist him in dealing with the trauma of being hit by volleys of ice shrapnel which he endured during this daring rescue) We urgently crave audience with the Bozo di tutti Bozos who would use such a Technology to rappel; at least he had the good sense to back it up with a proper Abalakov V-thread anchor!
There were many Chris-isms, even as brilliant as the Brilliant Title of this piece (Anyone Can Indeed Fall with Gravity), including the immortal "Everyone Dies Instantaneously". There were inquiries into the nature of gravity in the centre of the earth and the deeply troubling question of whether you'd care about the results whilst melting and becoming one with the planet's core. There were also Deep Explorations into metaphysical parapsychology...in the event there were ever to appear a vacuumed-out hole through the centre of the earth into which Schroedinger's Cat should fall, would it land butter side up.....Clearly we were not entirely sober.
It does seem as if we must have been ice climbing earlier that Saturday, because such Cataphysical Black Holes cannot appear without an energy vacuum created by doing Something Strenuous. So if we were ice climbing with a beginner group out of Shunda Hostel, and we weren't at 2 O'Clock Creek (no, never again, please...) then we must have been at...ummm...Cline River Gallery.
Right. That was it. Ah yes, we had ropes strung from Hither to Yon and Back Again. Some bozo (the author) got up at five o'clock or something and stumbled out to his van to discover...it had a flattened tire. There were cranky noises, metallic clanging--ah yes, it's all coming back to me now. The Heroic Early Risers (let the record retain to all Eternity that Tanya, Brett, and Victor and hold such Honours) rose early and left late.
We had the second rope up Pure Energy just as the Full Herd arrived, so Time was not lost. Tanya heroically spelunked the cavey space behind the Great Upper Ice Curtain, which is a really neat place to go. Her example led us to add a handline and jumars so all could enjoy (I've been there a dozen times & never noticed it before! Don't miss out!). Our Australian Contingent of Andrea and Vanessa did a sprightly dance up the ice, which we thought highly of considering that they'd never seen serious snow or ice hardly ever before. Der Toddmeister added upper pitch ropes, and behaved in a most Leaderlike fashion throughout, even restraining from serious gloating and jeering when Your Author fell off the mixed climb beside Pure Energy three times.
But the So-Called Beginners proved most disappointing. We had hoped to induce moments of sheer terror, but were sadly bereft of such twisted pleasures. Tim and Katie spent entirely too much time playing happily on the short but steep upper pitches. Shannon, Andrea and Vanessa rambled up and down the fierce experiences of the topmost ice pitches, and a happy herd led by Simon, Tanya, Brett, Blane, Joey and Victor kept a joyous noise of icefall coming from Pure Energy, the 25 meter sometimes Grade 4 Lead Attraction. O Horror, they made this miserable, fear-filled, frigid sport seem pleasant. Even though Todd stoutly maintained it was in Grade 3 condition his standards are too high; it was at least 4 minus, be fair!
Since we left Shunda Creek that Saturday morning, I suppose we must have driven there the night before. That would be Friday. I think we drank some Scotch and went to bed before eleven, because that's what we usually do on a Friday night when we drive into a climb. It seems to me that we (those of us who were getting up at 5:00 am) were awakened to watch a brilliant display of the Northern Lights which lead to Todd spouting off many complicated sounding scientific explanations and theories as to the cause of the same (Or was I just hallucinating Todd bravely standing outside at midnight in his shirtsleeves for no apparent reason).
That would be a very good thing to do again. Would someone please order up some more ice climbing before next December. It's hard on the mind to remember what you want to be in the future, such as more Excellent Ice Adventures with Eddie & Chris.
Participants: Andrea, Blane, Brett, Chris, Edwina, Joey, Katie, Rick, Shannon, Simon, Susan, Tanya, Tim, Todd, Vanessa and Victor
Ghost River Family Camp: July 1-7, 2000
by Reinhard Berg
A perfect spot for a family camp. The only thing missing was some families--at least the female portions thereof. Participants: John Booth & son Simon & nephew Lornie, Phil Kemp, Douglas Craig, Conrad Stratiy, Reinhard Berg & son Alik, age 12.
July 1: up at 5 to finish packing, Booth residence at 10:30 to take on some extra luggage, leave Edmonton on schedule at 11 AM, arrive at the top of the infamous "Big Hill" at 3:15. Reconnoiter a bit on foot; by the time we were back up at the car, the others had arrived & we headed down in 2 vehicles. The "road" was actually a breeze, far easier than 3 years earlier with Maris Rupners. Any car with a reasonable clearance should have no trouble handling it.
Doug found a nice spot ca. 200 m. east of the Park boundary, and everyone got busy setting up camp, including a gear tent and a cooking shelter. First order of business was bathroom protocol. I followed John's suggestion and provided a 5 gallon plastic pail, plus a package of 200 "Kitchen Catcher" bags. It worked like a charm, and enjoyed immediate popularity.
Sunday morning we headed up to Border Bluffs for some practice climbing. While the other three "oldsters" did some exploratory climbing at the right end of the cliff, I led up Rat Patrol 5.7, and let some of the younger set follow. (The climbs at this end of the cliff are not in the guidebook; I had the beta thanks to Al Pickle, whom I hadn't seen in 20 years, and who just happened to be camped next to us.) After that the "exploratory climbing" going on above us was beginning to cause an entirely unacceptable amount of rockfall, so we retreated to the left end of the cliff to try Achilles, 10b. After two of us had backed off this, the artillery above the right end of the cliff had abated somewhat, so we returned to do Rackless, 5.8, which starts with an enjoyable high step off a boulder; meanwhile Doug retrieved my draw on the third clip of Achilles, leaving some webbing behind. Many of us also tried Bandidos, 5.6, which boasts an interesting boulder start that claimed some pieces of skin off my fingers.
Back at camp I became the "skin doctor', using my bottle of New Skin to patch up everyone's owies. At 10:30 PM, Alik, his mother, and cousin Jessica from B.C. arrived on schedule and spent the night. (Alik had to miss the first day due to a soccer tournament).
Next morning I realized my #4 Friend was missing, which Phil & I were sure we had seen at camp. So we reascended to Border Bluffs, and sure enough, there it was, thrown on the ground at the base of a chimney (with my memory, it's a wonder I can write this report!). This time I headed up to the Sugar Loaf with the younger set and led both the 5.8 routes there on some of the finest limestone I have ever seen. Meanwhile Alik completed Achilles, thereby establishing himself as the best leader in camp. Later I had the opportunity to top-rope Achilles, while the day finished off with Alik leading up the only route on Popeye Tower, a stunning 10b arête, which John and I followed in beginning drizzle.
John's radiophone predicted rain for Tuesday and, indeed, we woke to threatening clouds. It was not raining yet, however, so 5 of us elected to head up towards Spirit Pinnacle. This uses the Bonanza approach, which has an easier stream fording than the Border Bluffs approach. After this fording I sat down to put on my boots again, taking Alik's rock shoes out of my pack & laying them on the heather beside me & saying to Alik: "make sure I don't leave those lying on the ground when we leave!" Soon we headed up the trail (a much clearer trail than the one to Borderline, which latter we invariably lost on the descent), and almost as soon it started to rain. Suddenly I realized I hadn't checked to make sure our tent fly was zipped up. I called ahead to Alik to wait for me to catch up (so I could ask him about this), then hurried up, and up, and up ...... where was Alik & the rest of the party? They had hunkered down behind a tree at a bend in the trail, and I had rushed right past them! After being reunited, we elected to return to camp, as it was starting to snow. As we sat down on the heather to put on our rubber sandals Alik called out: "Look, there are my rock shoes!" (by now soaking wet). We returned to camp, and everyone piled into Doug's truck for a trip to Banff and the hot springs, while I stayed behind to write this article, among other things. While drying my things in the afternoon sun, I noticed a bald eagle circling over our camp.
In the evening everyone returned from the hot springs; Alik brought back my boots which he'd put through the dryer, while Douglas brought me a loaf of my favorite dark bread. As Wednesday was forecast to be the best day of the week weather-wise, Alik & I decided we would forget about South Face Phantom Tower, and concentrate on the plum route of the area, The Wraith, 5.9.
Wednesday morning saw us at the base of the climb; as we were roping up, the rest of the party appeared on the scree below us, to spend a day climbing on the neighbouring Spirit Pillar. I quickly led the first 5.8 pitch, then settled in while Alik set out to do the crux pitch, a 5.9 pull over an arête. This is the picture on the cover of the Ghost River guidebook. As Alik prepared to do the move, I mentioned how nice it would be to have a camera to take the picture, which looked much better than the guidebook cover. Alik: "Sorry, I left that behind in camp". Then Alik sort of lunged at an out-of-reach hold and soon disappeared from view. For the next 1 1/2 hours the rope went out, came back in, went out, stayed out, came back in, etc. Finally it continued going out, and then I had to call to Alik: "almost no rope left!" Alik: "Can I have 3 more meters?" Myself: "only if I untie from the green rope." (The latter is only 50 m; the other rope was 55m X 8.5 mm) This I did, and with literally zero rope remaining I finally heard "On belay".
Connected only by the 8.5 mm purple rope, I quickly traversed to the crux, unclipped from the bolt--and gradually realized I couldn't do the move (jumping at the jug just out of reach somehow didn't occur to me). After about 5 minutes of trying I realized I was going to fall (which would have left me dangling in mid-air). Then I realized that, though I had no strength left in my arms for pulling up, I had enough left to reclip the draw. Having done this, I yelled "Take" and leaned back for a long rest. I can't remember ever being so badly burned out. After having recovered somewhat, I tried pulling on the draw, and realized that this allowed me to surmount the move.
After reaching down behind me to unclip the draw, I followed the purple rope upward (the green rope always dangling 3 m out of reach). When I came to the cracked pillar, I saw the rope diagonalling up to the left, but this looked very hard, so I tried stemming the corner formed by the left side of the pillar (Alik had left no protection at this level, so the route was not clear). I almost made it to the top of the corner, lunged for a jug--and pendulummed off, landing on my back on the ledge below. Since I was carrying the pack full of spare clothing, this was a very comfortable fall (the 8.5 mm rope stretched like a rubber band).
The fall snapped me out of my lethargy, and I attacked the wall, which now proved difficult but not impossible. After cleaning two pieces and collecting a third which had popped, plus unclipping from a fixed pin, I joined Alik at what turned out to be the top of the third pitch--he had combined the second and third pitch, each ostensibly 40 m (the Ghost guidebook does exaggerate pitch lengths somewhat!), into a single lead, getting off route at several spots, and leading the top half on three points of protection, finishing off with "totally horrendous" rope drag!
At the belay I tried to talk Alik into bailing, to no avail, then into agreeing to lead the fifth pitch (also 5.9) if I led the fourth (5.8). After I had led the fourth, Alik remained adamant, and I was starting to feel better about climbing, so we switched rope ends and I led the fifth, finding it nowhere nearly so difficult as the lunge by the bolt on the second (this we agreed was more like 10b or .c). Alik led the sixth pitch, labelled 5.8 in the writeup and 5.9 on the topo (I found it similar to the fifth in difficulty), ending at the sharp arête depicted on p. 108 of the guidebook. We stopped for some lunch, I reached into the top flap of the pack--and there was the camera! In failing light, Alik took some pictures of me au cheval on the arête (lower down, at the bolt, we would have had brilliant sunshine!), then we hurried up the last two easy pitches, then across to the descent gully. At the bottom of the rap I sent Alik to the base of our route to retrieve pack and boots, while I pulled and coiled the ropes. When he didn't return after an hour had passed, I went looking for him; we finally met at the top of the ascent trail (he had traversed above a pinnacle, I below).
We finally stumbled into camp at 11 PM (still light enough to ford the stream). Gratefully slurped down some hot soup prepared by Doug.
Next morning there was much hemming and hawing, but finally John and Phil agreed to accompany us up Bonanza. Alik led the first rope, I the second. Alik didn't much like the first chimney pitch, which was not always easy to protect. We had to somewhat split our rack, so we both were low on gear on the fifth pitch and had to do the second half thereof on minimal pro. Phil did the route in stiff-soled mountaineering boots; John in a less stiff but very worn pair of hiking boots! Both wished for rock shoes on the jamming sections.
On the zig-zag sixth pitch I placed long slings, and possibly for this reason had almost zero rope drag on the lead. At the rappel we sent John down first with the camera; hopefully there will be some exciting pictures of this 50 m mostly free-hanging rappel.
The next day Alik wanted to climb at Spirit Pillar. I was up at 7. At 8 I looked into the tent: Alik still dead to the world. At 9: ditto. At 10 I shook him awake: "Do you really want to go climbing today?" The answer was just a sleepy mumble: "Maybe not".
We decided there was time enough for a short hike to the Ghost Lakes. The same party of four from yesterday's Bonanza ascent strolled westward over tiger lilies and lady's slipper orchids. At the first lake we met Doug, who was just returning from an overnight hike.
Back at camp we packed everything up. As camp leader, and with only Alik to transport along with our gear, it was my lot to truck out the garbage, and .... the honey wagon detail. Now I have to explain. Last year at Squamish, we spent a rainy day taking the tour of the Brittania Beach mine. Among other things, our tour guide explained how one of the cars on the mine train contained two "honey buckets" and was therefore called the "honey wagon", it being invariably the lot of the most junior member of the day's mining crew to pull this car to the surface and empty its contents. We placed our "honey bucket", along with the garbage bags at the far rear of our station wagon, rolled down the windows, and commenced the drive out of Ghost River. The drive up the Big Hill was rougher after Tuesday's rainstorm, but still easier than 3 years ago with Maris. Is somebody grading the road? A small ways south on Highway 40 we stopped at a municipal Waste Transfer Site, but discovered that it only contained receptacles for recyclable materials. So we had to continue to a Stop Of Interest on the Trans Canada Highway, where we were finally able to relieve ourselves of our two garbage bags, and the Honey Bag. For the remainder of the drive home it smelled much better in the car.
In conclusion, let me reiterate: this is an ideal spot for a Family Camp, as you can drive in, and the valley bottom is perfectly flat. The river is no more than calf-deep, and the water safe to drink. A km south of us was an encampment of teepees; almost every night we fell asleep to the magical sound of native drumming and chanting echoing off the cliff faces. Truly a special place!
POSTSCRIPT
THE WRAITH, as told by Alik
"I led the traverse (2nd pitch, crux move), then tried the right side of the pillar. The climbing is on the face about 1 m right of the pillar (poor rock in the actual corner). The problem was that from the face I couldn't reach the corner to protect. So after 10 feet I retreated and tried the left side. After placing a #4 Friend in the corner, I climbed the face to the left of the corner (Daddy made the mistake of trying to climb the corner). After that, on easy ground, I missed the belay and then continued up a nice-looking ramp which turned out to be off-route. After retreating, I tried to make a belay at the base of the ramp, but couldn't find decent gear placements. Then I saw a pin up & to the right & headed for it. A few moves of strenuous pulls brought me to a ball nut placement. A bit higher I reached the base of the main corner, and simultaneously ran out of rope. At this point I could see the belay of Pitch 3, 12 feet above me, so I had Daddy untie from the shorter of our two ropes, which allowed me to reach the belay.
After the descent I took the high traverse back to the packs, which took so long that Daddy traversed across--on the lower traverse trail-- to look for me, with the result that we spent till nightfall looking for each other.